Handle Materials I use.
I like to use Micarta most of the time. I personally think it is the best material you can use. It is far stronger than any natural material like wood and it will not rot. It is not affected by most chemicals. Micarta will probably outlast the metal blade. That said natural material like Wood and Bone have a place as well. The point is that if you want the best, Micarta is it. As far as G-10 goes. Its nice and has more colors but I don't think it is better than Micarta but it is more expensive than Micarta. I also like to use Para-Cord to wrap the handles. I impregnate the Para-Cord with West Systems 105 Epoxy. This makes the Para-Cord hard and will withstand rough use as well as makes a nice looking and feeling handle. I usually use stainless steel or brass pins or rivets (hollow rivets) and West Systems Epoxy for securing handle material to tang.
Blade Steel I use.
1075, 1084,1095, 5160, 80CRV2, 8670M, L-6, 0-1, W-2. The 5160 I'm getting is oversized so its over 1/4" thick.
I plan on using Stainless Steels and "Powdered", steels in the future. The cost of the those knives will be higher due to the price of those steels and the fact that I will have to send them off to be heat treated which will add those costs to the price of those knives.
Sheath Materials I use:
At the moment I am just using Kydex, but I hope to branch out in to Leather Sheaths at some point soon. I like Leather for the Knives that I make that use natural handle materials like Wood. Kydex or Leather look good with Micarta.
I like to use Micarta most of the time. I personally think it is the best material you can use. It is far stronger than any natural material like wood and it will not rot. It is not affected by most chemicals. Micarta will probably outlast the metal blade. That said natural material like Wood and Bone have a place as well. The point is that if you want the best, Micarta is it. As far as G-10 goes. Its nice and has more colors but I don't think it is better than Micarta but it is more expensive than Micarta. I also like to use Para-Cord to wrap the handles. I impregnate the Para-Cord with West Systems 105 Epoxy. This makes the Para-Cord hard and will withstand rough use as well as makes a nice looking and feeling handle. I usually use stainless steel or brass pins or rivets (hollow rivets) and West Systems Epoxy for securing handle material to tang.
Blade Steel I use.
1075, 1084,1095, 5160, 80CRV2, 8670M, L-6, 0-1, W-2. The 5160 I'm getting is oversized so its over 1/4" thick.
I plan on using Stainless Steels and "Powdered", steels in the future. The cost of the those knives will be higher due to the price of those steels and the fact that I will have to send them off to be heat treated which will add those costs to the price of those knives.
Sheath Materials I use:
At the moment I am just using Kydex, but I hope to branch out in to Leather Sheaths at some point soon. I like Leather for the Knives that I make that use natural handle materials like Wood. Kydex or Leather look good with Micarta.
Model: Breaching Bar
Blade Length: 4"
Blade Width: 1.25"
OAL: 9"
Blade Length: 4"
Blade Width: 1.25"
OAL: 9"
Thickness: 3/16"
Handle Material: Para-Cord
Steel: 1075
Sheath: Black Kydex
Handle Material: Para-Cord
Steel: 1075
Sheath: Black Kydex
Price: $85.00
Para-Cord Handle is Impregnated with West Systems 105 Epoxy
Take Note
This is a Left Handed Model. As a Righty myself I actually prefer a left handed model for a couple reasons. First if in the field I normally have a side arm and a Combat knife taking up most of the real state on the right hand side and this not being a weapon the only place to put it is on the left hand side or position.
This is a Left Handed Model. As a Righty myself I actually prefer a left handed model for a couple reasons. First if in the field I normally have a side arm and a Combat knife taking up most of the real state on the right hand side and this not being a weapon the only place to put it is on the left hand side or position.
